Photograph: Julien de Rosa/AFP/Getty Images She was, undoubtedly, the supermodel with the most main-character-energy this catwalk season.īella Hadid at the Coperni show in Paris last month. But it also felt like a showcase for Hadid’s flashlight hipbones. The stated message of the stunt was to celebrate the sustainable credentials of Fabrican, which uses upcycled material and a compressed production process to drastically reduce the environmental impact of fabric production. One of the standout moments of the fashion season was at Coperni, where Bella Hadid stood virtually naked for nine minutes while a dress was created on her body using spray-on fabric. What’s more, the revival of Y2K dressing – low-rise trousers, bra tops, corsets, teeny-tiny miniskirts – puts bodies under blatant scrutiny, whereas for a while they were veiled by a trend for long, loose dresses and oversized knitwear. So why does it feel as if fashion is bringing size zero back? The statistics above do not differentiate between obscure designers who embrace diverse casting but whose shows get little attention, and megabrands that monopolise fashion’s bandwidth with glitzy gowns on supermodel bodies. That 64% of brands still employ only the traditional super-slender body type on their catwalk is slow progress, but the trajectory is curving in the right direction. The fashion search engine Tagwalk crunched the numbers, and found that out of 247 fashion shows this season, 90 included “curve” (plus-size) models, up from 62 the previous season. The funny thing is that catwalk models are not actually getting skinnier. Photograph: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images Julia Fox at the CFDA Fashion Awards in New York on 7 November. All of these were worn on the catwalk by models with the low body fat necessary for bones, cavities and ridges of muscle to be clearly visible. Second-skin catsuits came in black lace at Burberry and crystal mesh at Stella McCartney. At Versace there was a long plane of taut bare flesh between the bumster-style waistband on a pair of jeans and the tiny bra top. At Fendi, ribs were visible under tissue-thin knitwear tucked into cargo pants that hung below the models’ hipbones. The standout trend at this season’s catwalk shows was the flat stomach. Her slender body, not the dress, was the outfit. Baring Fox from her breastbone to her thighs, it revealed a black bikini and highlighted a carved-out, rock-hard midsection, visible ribs and sinewy glutes. Uncut Gems actor Julia Fox wore a cutout dress that was mostly cutout, with a side order of dress. But last week the red carpet was won not by a dress, but by a body. The Council of Fashion Designers of America awards are the highest honours awarded to US fashion designers, so you would expect the star-studded New York gala to be a showcase for extraordinary clothes. Sometimes fashion is about clothes, but sometimes it is really about bodies.
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